SeaChoice Profile

ShanDaph Oysters: Falling in Love with Sustainable Shellfish

This profile was written by Atlantic Sustainable Seafood Coordinator Sadie Beaton

Jonathan Swift once said, “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” Indeed, at first glance, this common mollusk appears anything but appetizing – an uneven, gnarly shell, often served on a bed of damp seaweed. Still, coastal peoples have been consuming oysters for many thousands of years, and the shellfish remains highly prized by gourmands the world over. It may not look like much, but with a taste evoking the delicate sea air, a freshly shucked ShanDaph oyster is matchless with a pint of Guinness or chilled Champagne.

Oysters are also precious to romantics, enjoying a long-standing reputation as a ‘love potion.’ As legend has it, Aphrodite was spawned from an oyster’s shell. And the world-renowned lover Cassanova is said to have downed over 50 of these delicate shellfish in the bath each morning. Backing up claims, scientists have found high levels of zinc in the soft flesh of the oyster, a key nutrient in testosterone production, along with dopamine, a neurotransmitter that influences desire.

But there is yet another reason for seafood lovers to embrace over a feed of ShanDaph oysters. After all, farmed oysters like the ones found at Philip Docker’s operation in Pictou County, Nova Scotia are a SeaChoice “Best Choice” option. This favourable ranking is based on five sustainability criteria: inherent vulnerability to fishing pressure, status of wild stocks, nature and extent of discarded by-catch, effect of fishing practices on habitats and ecosystems, and the effectiveness of the management regime.

Oysters are a common bivalved shellfish, found in protected bays around the world. Historically, they would have been collected by hand at low tide. Today, wild-caught oyster fisheries are executed with tongs or dredges. However, this is a fishery of “Some Concern” to SeaChoice, as the gear can harm seafloor habitats and associated organisms.

In Atlantic Canada, though, most oysters are cultivated on farms. Oysters are incredibly well-suited to cultivation, and unlike some fish farming operations, they don’t rely on feed made from wild-caught fish or chemical inputs. Rather, these filter feeders draw water and tiny food particles over their gills at the rate of five litres per hour. This voracious feeding helps to regulate algae and nutrient levels, improving the health of coastal waters.

For the most part, oysters are sold according to where they come from. This is because regardless of the species, an oyster’s flavour can differ significantly depending on their origin. These differences are the result of a complex set of circumstances, from local currents and tidal flow, to the scale of production and handling procedures used in the operation. While all farmed oysters get the SeaChoice “Best Choice” seal of approval, the scale of operations varies across the industry, making some oyster farms not only more tasty, but also more ecologically sound than others.

ShanDaph oysters are grown on a small farm in the calm Merigomish Harbour, in Pictou County, Nova Scotia. Set when they are less than a millimeter in size, the young oysters are suspended in grow out units, where they filter the rich tidal waters off Big Island for the next three to five years. At this time, the animal has reached over 70 millimeters in size, and is ready for harvest. Owner-operator Philip Docker harvests his ‘ShanDaphs’ each September, after they have sufficiently ripened.

Docker has taken special care to ensure the scale of his operation doesn’t exceed the capacity of the bay. This low-impact approach extends to all parts of the ShanDaph business, which runs on solar energy, and incorporates various recycled materials. ShanDaph Oysters even tries to ensure that their wooden packaging is sourced locally, from a sustainably managed woodlot.

Connoisseurs agree that the perfect oyster is moist, well-cupped, and contains a liquor that is clear and not cloudy, with the faint salty smell of the sea. One of very few animals that we consume alive, oysters are best eaten raw, slurped out the half-shell with a tiny dash of lemon or Tabasco. The true enthusiast might chew the oyster flesh to experience the full nutty flavour and briny tang. Or, if all of this makes you squeamish, oysters can also be baked, barbequed or steamed, and incorporated into all kind of delectable seafood dishes, including chowders, pastas and tapas.

ShanDaph oysters are available through the fall and winter at the Halifax Farmer’s Market every Saturday, or by ordering directly by phone or email. Shipped in attractive and re-useable wooden boxes, the oysters are best eaten fresh, but will keep for up to three weeks if stored properly in the fridge. Sustainable seafood lovers, be bold- these sexy shellfish are a SeaChoice “Best Choice” way to enjoy a gourmet meal, support marine conservation, and spice up your next date!